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'<p style="padding: 0px; margin: 20px 0px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: \'lucida grande\', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-indent: 2em;">
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<strong> <img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/170509/11-1F509150114Q1.jpg" style="width: 639px; height: 598px;" /><br />
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初創公司Afineur利用人工發酵方式生產貓屎咖啡</strong></p>
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<strong>“對於培養哪些微生物用於我們的食品，我們是實施控制的”</strong></p>
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印度尼西亞產的麝香貓咖啡（又稱“貓屎咖啡”）是世界上最昂貴的咖啡種類之一，每公斤售價超過1300美元。這一定價基於貓屎咖啡獨特的發酵過程：一種被稱爲麝香貓的毛茸茸的、像貓一樣的小型動物吞食咖啡果，然後經消化系統排出未消化的種子——也就是<a class="infotextkey" href="http://www.anduiy.com/kafeidou/" style="color: rgb(121, 81, 48); text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;" target="_blank">咖啡豆</a>，而咖啡豆此前在其消化道內發酵。在過去一年裏，生物學家卡米耶·德勒貝克(Camille Delebecque)和風味化學家索菲·德戴赫(Sophie Deterre)耗費了大量時間努力在不涉及麝香貓及其糞便的條件下複製麝香貓改變咖啡風味的能力。</p>
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德勒貝克和德戴赫於2014年年末在紐約共同創立了Afineur公司。他們做的是一種合成生態學試驗，即利用高度控制的試錯過程實現超越麝香貓腸道中所發現微生物的功能。與麝香貓不同的是，“對於培養哪些微生物用於我們的食品，我們是實施控制的，”德勒貝克說。</p>
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<img src="/uploads/allimg/170509/11-1F509150059263.jpg" style="border: none; vertical-align: top; max-width: 600px; width: 640px; height: 960px;" /></p>
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經過麝香貓腸胃系統發酵的咖啡豆售價逾每公斤1300美元，而Afineur在實驗室培養的咖啡豆售價在每公斤150美元左右</p>
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Afineur選擇了分別來自哥倫比亞和坦桑尼亞的兩種咖啡豆，然後在總共包含約700種細菌和真菌的微生物庫中挑選用於發酵的菌類，而在世界上爲數不多的、自然發酵的咖啡豆中，通常不存在這些菌類。該公司將數百磅的未烘焙咖啡豆與德勒貝克所謂的“超小量”微生物混合物攪拌在一起，置於金屬發酵罐一兩天。在此期間，這些微生物菌將侵蝕咖啡豆的表面並改變其風味。後續的烘焙會去除咖啡豆上任何遺留的微生物。</p>
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這兩位聯合創始人稱，他們已經確認了發揮特定功能的菌種。例如，有些微生物會“喫掉”讓烘焙後咖啡豆嚐起來苦、澀的化學物質。其他菌則會降解糖分、蛋白質甚至咖啡因，從而實現以生物學方式脫咖啡因的效果。Afineur烘焙的坦桑尼亞咖啡與正宗麝香貓咖啡的味道並不完全一樣，但德勒貝克說這是有意爲之的。Afineur烘焙出來的絲滑、果味咖啡具有較低的含酸量，使得它有可能讓人們的胃感到更舒適。通過這種方式而非利用麝香貓來生產咖啡豆也意味着不會涉及籠養或強迫餵食等問題。</p>
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作爲該公司僅有的兩位全職員工，德勒貝克和德戴赫最初在巴黎郊區上中學時相識。德戴赫曾在糖果製造商瑪氏公司(Mars)擔任風味化學家。而德勒貝克則在哈佛大學成爲迷上咖啡因的醫學研究者。當德勒貝克愛上各種咖啡試驗後，德戴赫便成了他的首選合夥人。</p>
<p style="padding: 0px; margin: 20px 0px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: \'lucida grande\', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-indent: 2em;">
他們從專注於初創公司的風投機構IndieBio手中獲得6萬美元風投融資，藉此啓動了公司的運營。他們說，Afineur在2015年實現收入約10萬美元，主要是通過在幾家零售店和Kickstarter網站上銷售咖啡豆，售價爲每5盎司29美元，或每30盎司129美元。這樣的售價比貓屎咖啡便宜，也就是接近每天去星巴克(Starbucks)喝杯拿鐵咖啡的月度成本，但超過大多數星巴克零售咖啡豆的價格。星巴克前技術服務總監達恩·貝利沃(Dan Belliveau)說，Afineur的定價使得它的咖啡成爲一個相當小衆的市場。“但是，如果賣得好，那就是自由市場，”貝利沃說，“他們真的做得不錯。”貝利沃目前是初創公司CF Global Holdings的首席執行官。CF Global Holdings是一家利用咖啡副產品生產高纖維粉的廠商。</p>
<p style="padding: 0px; margin: 20px 0px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: \'lucida grande\', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-indent: 2em;">
德勒貝克說，他和德戴赫正在研究發酵穀物的方法。眼下，他們將推出咖啡豆全球訂購服務（每月提供10盎司總價值49美元的咖啡豆，或以一定折扣全年提供咖啡豆）。此外，他們還在與全食超市公司(Whole Foods)以及紐約地區高端餐廳展開談判，希望通過它們的門店售賣Afineur咖啡豆。德勒貝克說，他並不擔心公司目標受衆的侷限性：“消費者在尋找有意思的口味。發酵工藝解鎖了全新元素。”撰文/Peter Andrey Smith 編輯/楊貴 譯/許子?軒</p>
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總之 只擁有兩名全職員工的初創公司Afineur正利用各種細菌和真菌來嘗試咖啡發酵，以實現罕有的咖啡豆風味。</p>
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